August Newsletter

Hi All,
It’s the AGM meeting was this month. If you didn't get to it don't worry you can catch up on the minutes next meeting, but we would also like to remind you that membership fees are also due. After the Meeting we all had a chance to work on some trees and enjoy afternoon tea.

Many thanks.

We have reached 37 Likes on our Facebook page. Please like us if you haven’t already done so.

Some More pictures from the Chris Allnutt Workshop

Chris Allnutt with Mike and Chris. Major restyling on thistree was undertaken.

The pine from another view

A view of the workshop group

Chris demonstrating

Bunnings night in June with Vic

Vic  demonstrated on a Shimpaku Juniper at Bunnings in June. It was an entertaining night.

It had been sometime since Vic had last demonstrated although you would never have known it.

A tree with real potential

The fruits of our labour (The results of our dig)

This is the team of bonsai dig enthusiasts that headed out to collect Olives. We collected some excellent specimens. There is many more Olives available. The location is available to financial club members.

NEWSLETTER Chris Allnutt is coming this July

Hi All,
Lots happening this month. To start the ball rolling we have Chris Allnutt here on the 20th and 21st July. The Olive dig is on Sunday 4 August. It is re-potting season too, a busy time for many.

We have reached 31 Likes on our Facebook page. Please like us if you haven’t already done so.
Look forward to seeing everyone at the coming events.

Cheers


From The President 
Hi All,
I haven’t got an article for you this month as time has gotten away from me. This is mainly housekeeping for our next meeting and our visitor Chris Allnutt. On Saturday afternoon, we’ll start Chris’ presentation at 1.30pm. We want to be on time so please try and be there by that time. The Committee will have a quick meeting before.
On Sunday morning, we will be having a workshop with Chris so if you have a tree to work on, please bring it. Pines are not the only thing that Chris will be talking about. The workshop will start at 9.00am. Here again, we wish to start on time so it is preferable if you can arrive a little earlier and be set up by 9am. There is no charge. Chris is very generous with his time. It would be good if you could bring something along for Saturday/Sunday afternoon and morning teas.

The Dig: The dig is Sunday 4th August. We are meeting at Chris Helyar’s place – 79 Simmons Street. There is plenty of parking there and on the way out. We may be able to car pool if people wish to. The dig is at Yanco at the back of the Agriculture School. Besides tools, you will need to bring your own lunch, drinks etc. I’ll have a dig list available next weekend.

Winter Maintenance: I'm leaving for Queensland early August and will be away for about a month. As August is the main month for re-potting my deciduous trees, I am trying to get them all done before I go as it will be a bit late when I get back. I will have to wait for spring to see the results.

If you haven’t already done so, winter is the best time to look at your deciduous trees and tidy them up, and review the structure of the tree. The evergreens can be done later if you haven’t the time to do the lot now. What you can also be doing now is preparing your soil mix, check pots and in general have everything ready for your re-potting.

Ladysmith: We have been asked by the Ladysmith Community Hall Committee to put on a small display in early November – on one day only, a Saturday. More about that later but, with Spring approaching, we would appreciate your selection of a tree for the display. Also keep in mind that we will have another tutor coming for our November meeting. More details later.

Cheers


A Little about our demonstrator Chris Allnutt
Chris has a broad background as both a student of bonsai and teaching students of both Imperial Gardens Bonsai and the School of Bonsai. He holds a Certificate in Horticulture – Nursery Studies from Ryde School of Horticulture, passing out with an Award of Excellence for Best Achievement in Practical Studies. Chris has attended two world bonsai conferences and travelled China, Korea and thrice to Japan on bonsai
tours. These days he prefers to work with minis, as they are more challenging than larger trees.
Source: Bonsai by The Harbour flyer 2013—http://www.cbs.org.au/pdfs/events/bfa%
20seminar%20flyer%2013.pdf Accessed 15 July 2013

Photo Courtesy of Japan Journey’s Album BCI Grand Bonsai Tour 2011 Facebook page—
Accessed 15 July 2013 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?
fbid=10150422003748695&set=a.10150419443363695.377791.178417873694&type=3&theater

Items required for the dig
Please note the list below is an indication of what's required, in no means are all these items necessary.
1. Water (both for yourself and the trees), and possibly a little extra to clean up afterwards.
2. Sun tan lotion, Hat
3. Comfortable boots, sturdy shoes, gum boots
4. Food for the day
5. Toilet roll
6. Wet hessian / newspaper to wrap the root ball in after collecting.
7. Black bags, to cover the roots once wrapped to retain moisture.
8. Styrofoam boxes with holes. Available from Duffy Bros.
9. String
10. Knife
11. Handsaw to remove large branches.
12. Small handsaw to cut roots.
13. Tree sealer
14.Wiltpruf (to seal in moisture, to slow down transpiration)
15. Lopers to cut roots / branches (extremely useful)
16. Gloves
17. Hook (for example a bent screw driver) to loosen soil / stones between roots.
18. Spray bottle
19. Small spade
20. Axe (must be sharp)
21. Pick
22. Crowbar (to remove rocks)
23. Backpack to carry tools in
24. Chain saw
There was some talk about a BBQ—Sausage sizzle camp style. We can chat more about it this weekend.

NEWSLETTER, Canberra AABC seminar, May 2013

Hi All,
The AABC seminar is on in Canberra this month and a small con- tingent from the club will be attending. We will bring back loads of photo’s and information to share at the June meeting.
This month the club meeting falls on the same weekend as the AABC seminar. For the members staying behind you will be well looked after by the lovely Pat who is going to assist you with wiring and pruning deciduous trees. Pat has some amazing deciduous trees from the “motherland” and her knowledge on the English varieties is second to none in our club. I strongly suggest chatting to her about her trees especially if you have purchased one from her, have the same species or are looking at trying one.

Enjoy the AABC Seminar or the local club meeting 
Cheers

Junipers

The Juniper is an excellent subject for Bonsai especially for beginners. The two main varities used in Bonsai are Juniper Procumbens and Juniper Chinesis. Juniper Procumbens have a needle type foliage. The main varieties are Procumbens ‘Nana’, Juniper Rigida and Juniper Squamata. Juniper Chinesis has a soft foliage and the main varieties are Juniper Shimpaku (also known as Sargenti in some areas) and Blaauws Juniper. There are others but these are not readily available in Australia. 

When selecting a plant, the main elements to look for are the same as for any other plant so let’s have a quick revision. 

Roots – The roots should spread evenly all round the tree and divide at the base of the tree. These trees are mainly surface rooting and so have a fibrous root ball that will need to be untangled.

Trunks – trunks should taper as they go upwards. These trees look good with twists and bends. If you have something special in mind and can’t find it, get a
young plant and wire the trunk to the shape you want. Before doing so, check
that the material is supple enough and protect the trunk for the wire with raffia or bike tubing. The latter is my preferred material at this time. With this protection, you can leave the wire on longer than normal and so get a better result.

Apex – Every tree has an apex. When reducing the height, make sure you know
the front of your tree and that you have a suitable branch you can bring up to replace the old apex.

Branches – Select a tree with plenty of compact foliage from the base of the
branches. With the procumbens, if the needle type foliage is too long, you can
cut it with scissors. The cuts will go brown but you can remove the brown parts later on. In the case of the Chinesis foliage, cut to the base of the foliage and not straight across – this will probably prevent browning.


Pots – Evergreen trees look best in earthenware pots. Pat Kennedy’s earthy
glazes are also good. The Juniper is one plant I have managed to grow in a slender pot. They do tolerate our heat well and will stand a little drying out. As
usual, the shape of the pot will depend on the style of the tree. We have a much
longer potting time with Junipers being able to pot in the Autumn as well as in
the Spring. I do mine in the Autumn.

Pruning – For your regular maintenance, pruning is best done by plucking. You remove the tips of the foliage when the tips are long enough to grasp. This constant plucking, thickens up your foliage pads. Keep underneath the pads clear. I find the foliage of the apex of the Chinesis get very heavy and need thinning out.

Fertilizers – I have the same programme for all my trees. I mainly use liquid fertilizers – seasol and powerfeed. The Chinesis like lime and I sprinkle 1 or 2 teaspoons of Dolomite on top of the pots in December and February. I did try it on Procumbens but I found they didn’t like it as much.

Repotting – I repot the trees every 2 years except for miniatures which I do annually.

Styles – The Junipers are suitable for all the styles except the Broom.

NEWSLETTER, Autumn is here! April 2013

Hi All,

The warm days and the colder nights mean a great show of Autumn colours around town and in the Bonsai collection. This is a good reminder to move your frost prone bonsai to their winter protected homes and to start preparing for the winter months by cleaning away fallen leaves and debris and final feedings before winter sets in. Check your watering system/regime and start to reduce the water as required. Stop pruning your deciduous flowering trees now, these have started forming the buds for the springtime.

This month the club meeting is based on re-potting conifers and of course working on any trees you wish to bring in.

The AABC seminar is on in Canberra next month and this is your last chance to buy tickets. If you would like more info please email. Look forward to seeing you all on Saturday.

Cheers

The Jade Tree—Crassula Arborescens

The Jade is a native of South Africa, where it can reach 3 metres (10ft) in height. It has thick branches and smooth rounded fleshy leaves. There are a number of species. I have tried the common dark green and a striking lighter green variety with red tinges on new stalks and leaves. I find the latter is better for developing the foliage. The darker variety does not thicken up so well. The jade is a succulent so does not require as much water as other species. This said, I now water mine at the same time as all my other trees and it does equally as well less water. They are not frost tolerant so need protection during the winter. Just under the eves seems to be enough. They do drop leaves during winter and you may find some wrinkling—might need a little extra water.

Feeding
I feed the same as all my other trees with fish emulsion and powerfeed.
Re-potting
Every 2-3 years is fine. I just use my usual mix with a little extra stone for drainage. Being a succulent you do
not want root rot
Wiring
I find they take wiring well
Pruning
Major pruning can be done throughout the summer. To thicken the branches pinch back the shoots. Like the Olive they have a tendency to put out shoots along the trunk where they are not required and at the base. Pinch these out instead of cutting. Remove leaves under branches to develop the pads.
Getting new trees
Being succulent they strike from cuttings easily. Even I can get them to strike. I find they are slower to develop  in a pot. The quickest way to get a tree is if you are able to find an old specimen. Look at it carefully and see if one of the side branches is a potential bonsai. If you find one cut it off, watching the length of the trunk. Five (5) longitudinal cuts approx 2cm long have to be made around the base of the trunk and from these cuts the roots will strike. Place in a sandy mixture an hopefully in time you will have a nice nebari. The branches and the foliage pads will still have to be developed.
Styles
Jade lends itself best to upright styles of informal upright and multiple trunk. If a good specimen can be found it is possible to have a cascade.

FOR SALE - CLUB DISPLAY STANDS

The Club stands which have been used for display purposes since we hosted the National Convention in 1999 are up for sale at the princely sum of $5 each.
There are 10 in all – $ are alreadry sold.
They range in height from 820mm to 1255mm, with tops ranging from 350 x 350mm to 580 x 490mm.
Not suitable for leaving out in the weather but will last a long time in semiprotected areas such as under covered patios or on veranda's.
First in best dressed – we can deliver in Wagga Wagga.
Please contact the club for further details